In Chicago, they have five restaurants to choose from.By Natalie MooreSeveral times a week Bonnie Ringo buys a crispy golden catfish special from JJ Fish & Chicken on 79th Street, just west of the Dan Ryan Expressway.Critics have long complained the federal law doesn’t allow benefits to be used for purchasing prepared food, such as a rotisserie chicken at a grocery store.Sophie Milam, vice president of public policy and advocacy for the Greater Chicago Food Depository, said the restaurant pilot is an important way to increase access to food for those who do not have access to a kitchen or the ability to cook food for themselves.A professor of food and nutrition at Cornell University who previously worked for more than a decade at the University of Illinois at Chicago, Odoms-Young is quick to say she’s not for food stamp restrictions — but she believes in support."